Hi,
I have written this note in response to questions about windsurfing at Cabarete. I have been there six times, always in March. I go with my wife and two children (now aged 5 and 8). I have always rented from Vela, and have always stayed at the Palm Beach Condos. This note has sections dealing with: the beach, the sailing, hotels, equipment rental, and the town of Cabarete.
For an idea of what the wind is like in March, you can look at a log of all the sail and board sizes I have used on my trips to Cabarete: Equipment Log
If you have any other questions don't hesitate to contact me. jfeehan@ix.netcom.com
A lot of info about Cabarete can be found at: www.hispaniola.com/Cabarete/index.html
The beach is quite nice. It is ~1.5 miles (~2.5km) long, and sits on a large U-shaped bay which faces north. It has yellow/light brown sand and can be as much as ~30 yards (~30m) wide in some places. There are palm trees. The central portion of the beach (bottom of the U) is lined with restaurants, bars, windsurfing rental operations, and hotels. Most of the buildings are 1 or 2 stories high, and I don't think any are above 4 stories - There are no high rises. Many of the restaurants and bars rent out chairs and serve food and drinks on the sand. There are some vendors on the beach, but they are regulated, and wear a sort-of uniform. The vendors are polite and do not hassle visitors. There is an unobtrusive police presence on the beach.
Cabarete faces the Atlantic Ocean and, in March, there is usually at least a small shore break on the beach. However, most days the break is tame enough for even small children to play in - with supervision. On some days the shore break is big enough for pretty good boogie-boarding. Vela provides free use of boogie boards for their customers. The waves don't appear to be that good for surfing, which is supposed to be better at Playa Encuentro, just west of Cabarete. Because the wind-line is off the beach a little bit, sunbathers usually don't get sandblasted at Cabarete. The bay at Cabarete is not a good snorkeling spot. The waves stir up the sand, and visibility is not good enough. I think that some people do snorkel out at the reef on calm days. My understanding is that the reef is mostly dead because of a high sedimentation rate, perhaps caused by clearing of land in the mountains.
The central portion of the beach can get very crowded. Cabarete has become very popular with Europeans who come on inexpensive package holidays. While there are many European windsurfers at Cabarete, the people on these package holidays are generally not windsurfers, and they seem to have come to Cabarete mostly to drink. By walking along the beach it is possible to find less crowded stretches of beach. But, because of several new hotels, the beach has generally gotten more crowded. Inevitably, with the larger crowds we occasionally see trash on the beach. However, the beach is cleaned every day and it is not a big problem. As I noted, I have always gone in March, around spring break time, and what I have noticed is that some weeks are quite crowded, and some weeks are quieter, more like it was several years ago. Cabarete seems to be just beginning to attract American college students on their spring break vacations. On my most recent trip, in 2002, the number of tourists was down considerably, and the beach was relatively quiet and pleasant.
The stretch of Beach in front of the Palm Beach Condos is one the widest and nicest parts of the beach. It is not so crowded and it is kept very clean. This part of the beach is really great for young kids to play on as there is plenty of room to run around, yet it is easy to keep track of them. There are many palm trees for shade in front of PBC making it a good place to read a book or just relax in a beach chair.
The windsurfing conditions at Cabarete are quite variable in March. My trips have generally lasted between 10 and 13 days, and each trip had ~6-9 shortboard days. Some days were 6.0-7.0, while some were 4.0-4.5. I weigh about 160 lbs. On a good day, Cabarete is a really fantastic sailing site. A good indication of windspeeds in March can be obtainedby looking at my equipment log.
In general, the bay does not become sailable for shortboards before about 12:30 noon. After 12:30, anything is possible. On a good day, the wind fills in right away to ~5.0-5.5 conditions, with good waves on the reef. Some days start out with 6.0-7.0 conditions, which may or may not improve later in the afternoon. Once sailable, only rarely does the wind die completely before about 6:00 pm, but it can diminish. If you notice the wind going slightly more offshore late in the day - watch out. However, some of the best sailing can be late in the day; the wind is often good and there are fewer sailors out. Compared to other Vela destinations, the Vela center at Cabarete opens late; ~9:00-10:00 am, and closes late; ~6:00 pm. I have been told that clients of Center Nathalie Simone can sail as late as they like.
The equipment rental places have many non-sailing activities orgainized for mornings, usually finishing up between 12:00 and 1:00. Don't hesitate to participate in these, only rarely will you miss any sailing. In any case, if it is blowing before 1:00, it will usually blow for the rest of the day.
As noted above, Cabarete sits on a U-shaped bay A reef stretches across the mouth of the bay, about 1/3-mile out from the center of the U. On some days in the winter and spring large waves break on the reef. Inside the reef one finds everything from slalom to challenging bump/jump conditions, depending on the wind and waves on that particular day. Outside the reef, large rolling ocean swells are typical. They are usually not breaking. There are some spots on the reef where the water is deeper, and where the waves don't break so big. In these "channels" it is easier to get out to the ocean than where the waves are breaking big. Except on really big days, a good intermediate should be able to make it out over the reef. The water is at least 3 feet deep on the part of the reef where most people sail, and, if you fall you usually don't get driven on to the coral by the wave. If you do fall on the reef, you will get washed back into the bay by the waves. You will probably take a few breaking waves over your head, but it's not usually a big deal. On most days the waves at the reef tend to "crumble" (for lack of a better word) from the top, rather than pitch up really high and close out with a big crash. This means that they don't usually break on top of you with a lot of force. Of course there are some days where the waves get very large - mast high and bigger - and on these days the reef is a place for experienced wave sailors only. It is a good idea to bring a pair of binoculars so that you can observe the waves from the beach before heading out.
I will preface my description of wave sailing at Cabarete by noting that I am not an experienced wave sailor. The wind at Cabarete is mostly from the northeast, making it side-onshore, and wave riding is mostly of the onshore or "backside" variety. However, as one gets further west, the reef curves a little bit and the wind, becomes a little more sideshore relative to the waves. The passage of high pressure systems north of Cabarete causes the wind directions to cyle somewhat from NE (side-on) to SE (side-off) as they move eastward. So There are occasional days when frontside riding is possible at some locations on the reef - or so I've been told.
The waves at Cabarete are really great for jumping. The side, to side-on, wind means that you can hit the ramps head-on while reaching, or close-reaching, with lots of speed. There are plenty of good waves for jumping inside the reef too.
You can have a great time without going past the reef, and I would guess that only 1/3 of the sailors ever venture beyond the reef. However, I feel that even if you don't want to ride or jump waves on the reef, the sailing in the swells beyond the reef is so much fun that it is worth getting out there - as long as you are confident in your ability and your gear. Once you do get out there, it's so beautiful that it's tempting to go farther than is wise. I usually try to not be the farthest sailor from land.
Inside the reef the bay is large with plenty of space to sail. Occasionally it gets a little crowded right in front of the rental centers, but by going a little upwind or downwind you can find plenty of room. On some days there can be a moderate shore break that causes a little difficulty for less experienced sailors. At Vela, there is occasionally a slight wind shadow on the beach, with a windline about 10-20 yards off the beach. Some people have difficulty launching because they try to walk their gear out beyond the shore break where the water can be chest deep. Because of the wind shadow there may not be enough wind for a deep water beach-start. The trick is to time the waves and launch between them in knee-deep water. You may have to slog your board through some small breaking waves. Again, this only happens on some days. It has never been a problem for me, but I've seen some people get a little frustrated. Remember, the wind shadow is what makes the beach nice for people who don't sail
When strong winds - say 5.0 or smaller - coincide with big waves, the windsurfing at Cabarete can be quite challenging for intermediate level sailors. However, it is a really excellent place for sailors of this level who want to improve. I think that many sailors don't realize how much they are learning until a week or so has passed and they realize that they are comfortable in conditions that scared them on their first day.
My feeling is that although one finds beginners at Cabarete, it is best suited for those who have a good waterstart or are ready to learn to waterstart - at least in March. Perhaps in the summer, when, reportedly, the wind is more consistent and the water is flatter, it is better suited to beginners.
If you plan to rent equipment, I strongly recommend making a reservation before you go. I have seen people turned away at Vela. There are many places to rent equipment, and most of it is of good to excellent quality. Most Americans seem to rent at Vela, and that is where I have always rented. Carib Bic is also popular with Americans. Vela uses what I call the "American" system where you can use whatever gear is not being used by someone else. Many of the other places use the "European" system where you have one board for your whole stay, and no one else can use it - you can set up the footstraps etc. the way you want them and they will always be that way. But, you are not guaranteed the use of any other boards.
The Vela center is probably the largest rental operation on the beach. Because the conditions are so variable, I like to have access to different boards, and Vela has an excellent, perhaps the best, selection. The specific gear available varies from year to year. Sails have always been from Neil Pryde. As of march 2002, boards are mostly from JP Australia, F2, and Maui Project. An interesting new development was the addition of a small selection of boards from Starboard - GOs, STARTs, and a Formula 175. I would guess that perhaps 80% of the gear at Vela is new (from the current model year) and the rest is mostly from the previous model year. They make a good effort to keep the nonskid repaired, but it can still be a problem. I think this is mostly the manufacturer's fault. I keep a pair of booties handy for when I get a board with poor nonskid. Vela is located near the eastern end of the beach. Generally, the more east one is, the greater the wind shadow is, but the smaller the shore break is. I think Vela has a great launch site.
I also like the gear offered by the Club Nathalie Simone which is next to Palm Beach Condos. In addition to their "standard" Bic boards they offer an upgrade to some really nice AHD boards in carbon sandwich construction. They use the "European" rental system. in 2001 I rented a board there for my niece to use. I was very impressed with their service. They are friendly and welcoming to Americans. They seemed to have plenty of gear that was not reserved for individual sailors, and was available for the general pool of sailors.
I have always stayed at the Palm Beach Condos (PBC). PBC Is a very well run place with a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. It works so well for families, that I wouldn't consider staying anywhere else. If you don't have kids you have more options, but PBC would still be a great choice.
PBC consists of 16 apartments, in 2 separate 3-floor buildings, which are arranged around a central courtyard. The courtyard has a pool and adjoins the beach. A third building located across a small alley-way behind the main buildings has some smaller (and less expensive) apartments. I haven't seen these smaller apartments. In the two beach-front buildings, each apartment has 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a kitchenette, a living room area, and a patio or balcony. Most of the apartments have good views of the ocean, and it is easy to keep an eye on the sailing conditions. The beach in front of PBC is excellent for swimming and sunbathing. It is also a very good windsurfing launch.
PBC is probably the most attractive property on the main part of the beach. It is very nicely landscaped and is a relatively peaceful place. The apartments are individually owned by Americans, Canadians, and Europeans. A few of the owners are usually in residence during March, and they care very much about the happiness of their guests. The staff have mostly been there for years and they are very good.
There are usually lots of kids around PBC and they all play together. In fact, we usually see some of the same families there every year. My kids love it there.
Many hotels in Cabarete are not on the beach. Some that are on the beach are not really on a sailable part of the beach. In particular, those at the extreme east or west end of the bay, or on the points, which define the bay, do not have useable launches. Some are actually on the wrong side of the point. The Vela center from which I rent my sailing gear is only a short 3 or 4 minute walk from PBC. While sailing, it is easy to land at the beach in front of PBC in order to take a break and check in with the family. The ability to do this is really a great feature of PBC because my family doesn't get the feeling that I've deserted them to go sailing.
The main street through the town of Cabarete is busy, and not especially picturesque. It is crowded with tourists, and generally has a fair bit of traffic and noise. It is not the sort of place that I like to wander about. If you are into shopping, there are plenty of trinket shops - probably too many. I usually go to the shopping area only to buy food.
Cabarete is unlike some of the big resorts in the Dominican Republic in that it is open to Dominicans. I like this, some people don't. Although the economy of Cabarete is entirely tourism dependent, real people live there. On weekends they take their families to the beach, something not permitted at the big resorts in the Dominican Republic. Again, I like this aspect of Cabarete.
I have 2 young children. The beach and pool at the Palm Beach Condos are really great for them. My wife windsurfs a little bit, but the chop is usually too big for her. She is quite happy hanging out with the kids on the beach. We bring a baby sitter, and my wife goes mountainbiking or just relaxes by herself. The mountainbiking is quite good. Some people go there just to mountain bike. The countryside is beautiful.
The nonstop flight is less than 3 hours from New York, and is easy for kids. I usually take a 7:00am flight, and can be sailing in the afternoon.
The general set up is hassle-free. For example, no car is needed. We go out for dinner a lot. This is a simple matter of walking down the beach and choosing a restaurant. Some put tables out on the beach and the kids play in the sand when they get antsy. Dinner is late there, and they usually fall asleep on a beach chair while we eat.
When it blows, the sailing is great.
I've been on a lot of windsurfing trips (Aruba, Margarita, The Gorge, Hawaii) and, now that I have kids, Cabarete works the best for me.
Jeff Feehan